From the streets of Sag Harbor to the beaches of Santa Monica, no matter where you are in America, there’s one sartorial guarantee for Memorial Day weekend. Someone’s going to show up to the function in a Ralph Lauren flag sweater.

You know the one. It’s been made internet-famous for its easy grace. It’s been worn by the likes of Gigi Hadid and Jessica Chastain. It’s often (rather unsuccessfully) imitated, but never replicated. It is, by all accounts, the perfect summer sweater. Because much like New England lobster rolls and sand in your Jeep, the iconic knit is eternal—more synonymous with orange ocean sunsets, summer Fridays, and effortless luxury than any specific time or place. So, where then did it all begin?

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